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Big wave Surfing

March 27th 2008 00:02

The art of riding a moving everest.

Ride, ride, ride the wild surf

Continuing to introduce the extreme sports disciplines that will dominate this blog comes a profile of big wave surfing.

For some the measure of men, others view it as suicidal, regardless anyone who has ever had a serious passion for surfing has to stand back in awe at the warriors of the waves.

Defined by plummeting over the lip of any wave beyond the 20 foot mark, the quest to ride the largest swell has existed since before surfing was even recognised as a sport.

Back in the 70’s when I was growing up there was very famous painting of Hawaiian surf pioneer Duke riding a massive multi storey swell in the early 1900’s. At the time it inspired my imagination and stood as an unbelievable feat.

The Duke and Tarzan Johnny Weismuller

Now in the new era of tow in surfing there is no limit to what is achievable if you have the balls to take off. As technology continues to benefit mankind it also allows the sports elite to travel the globe and discover previously untapped reserves of these potentially fatal adventures.

Laird Hamilton pulls into the mighty teaphoo

The most recognised and feared breaks on the dancing with death circuit are Mavericks in California, Jaws in Hawaii and Teahupoo in Tahiti. The hectic Mavericks break gained a notoriety when it crashed down on legend Mark Foo in 1994 claiming his life.

Welcome to Maverick's

Teahupoo is arguably the angriest and most unforgiving barrel ride in the world. Observing its cycle you realise that essentially the entire ocean is just pushing forward towards the shore with a devastating power that can only be tamed by a select few.

Jaws - scarier than any Great White

Practitioners of the sport have been labelled everything from suicidal to mentally handicapped. For admirers it is their ability to control fear, harness nature’s fury and just survive their chosen profession.

Demanding constant respect for the deep blue and an ability to comprehend the language of the wave, the top dog at the moment is veteran dare-devil Laird Hamilton.
Other prominent names include Mike Parsons, Ken Bradshaw and Greg Noll.

Those looking to experience the thrill of big wave riding should check out the documentary Riding Giants which traces the history of the sport. The Billabong Odyssey also delivers and Black Water, a documentary about Teahupoo will leave you stunned.

Here is footage of one of the biggest waves ever ridden from Billabong Odyssey